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Australian topgastronomi does not take up much in conversations between Denmark foodies, which goes a long way must because there is a part of those who have not visited the vast continent. A shame! For the country reveal some amazing dining experiences in the absolute world elite.
Australia has in many ways gone through a process very similar to the one we have experienced in the north; a growing marrakech pride of own raw materials, new flavor combinations and a growing number of talented, ambitious chefs. One of these is Mark Best, first at the age of 25 years decided to abandon his career as a mine electrician to become a chef. After taking a stint at Alain Passard marrakech at the legendary L'Arpege in Paris, came Mark Best back to Sydney to open his own place, Marque Restaurant. It has been a great success with a large number of rave reviews, awards to this year's chef and formerly a place on the World's 50 Best list.
Marque Restaurant is located behind a discreet façade in Sydney's trendy Surry Hills on the main street Crown Street. Discretion stand very much out on this street that oozes bright colors and secondhand hipsterbeklædning to an extent that makes københavnerhipsternes ditto to fade. However, there is no hipsterstil inside. The relatively dark room with velstrøgne tablecloths exudes style without airs, and it is the same attitude that serves staff from sliding around on the floor.
Marque has only one menu that offers approximately 10 servings and costs 165 Australian dollars (ed: about 850 USD), while the accompanying wine menu is at 85 (ed: about 400 USD). We started with a glass of Champagne, GH Mumm 2006, there came forth little sweetness, notes of nuts and apples; a crisp, fresh start. In addition, we enjoyed marrakech a delicious snack, 'sea biscuit', a crisp cracker with sea urchins, OySTER and crispy flakes of seaweed; mineral and well salted, which played with the champagne.
The first dish on the menu was a signaturret in the form of crab from Fraser Island off the east coast of Australia. It picked meat was below a gel of mandelgazpacho, corn cream and almond foam, which stood as the top of an iceberg, covered with powder of popcorn. Beside them lay a small pile of avruga-caviar if minerality dressed crab meat. The naturally sweet, delicate meat reconciled fine with almond elements, marrakech but was entirely right too sweet. We lacked a sour kicker that gave some freshness. It was, unfortunately, neither entirely from the associated wine, 2011 Vom Grauen Schiefer from Clemens Busch in Mosel, Germany, who only saw moderate acid, kerosene and a grapefruit bitterness, which in turn gave good counterpoint marrakech to the right.
What we lacked in crab law came in return for a small mellemret in the form of honey belly with kimchi of daikon. It råmarinede meat from the lobster-like shellfish felt really well with the spicy kimchi, and the animal's own roe on top contributed an elegant obesity as rounding.
We stayed in the ocean with the next court, where we were presented with millimeters thin slices of smoked eel, which was joined by the soft, creamy pillows of parmesangnocchi with lots of flavor from the Italian cow's milk cheese. The elements swam in a pond of crystal clear græskarconsommé. The fat eel and grocchi got a discreet, fine element of bitterness from the powder of dried orange peel, which was sprinkled over the dish. Simple, tasty and phenomenal.
Although wagyukød originally from Japan, marrakech Australia is also proficient in the breeding of this breed, which achieves an extremely nice and close marbling, resembling a dense spider marrakech web that will get the fat frightened to flee; but gastromand marrakech know that the flavor is in the fat, and therefore wagyu a delicacy of the greats. Next right commanded precisely wagyu, here in a thin slice that had been given a ride on the one hand on a red-hot frying marrakech pan. The melting tender meat was served simply with fermented mushrooms with a complex salt to taste and ice plant, a crisp herb that got its name because it is covered with small "blisters" that look like morning frost. That is all it takes to create a dish that will be crystal clear in my memory for many years to come. The wine there, 2010 St. Joseph Pierre Gonon in the Côtes du Rhône, in pure syrah was a razor-election to the flesh with its voluptuous, dark fruit, herbs and a solid amount of tannin that went in perfect symbiosis with the meat.
The palatability continued in the next court, which featured a creamy mousse marrakech of duck and kyllingel
