Saturday, July 12, 2014

Neko je u svom putopisu nazvao Laos mestom gde se duša odmara. Dolazak u glavni grad Vijentijan to s

LAOS LAOS – ປະຊາຊ ນສປປລາວ @ Miodrag Colić
Neko je u svom putopisu nazvao Laos mestom gde se duša odmara. Dolazak u glavni grad Vijentijan to sasvim opravdava, a stara prestonica Luang Prabang je više toga. Tu se duša ne samo odmara, već prelazi u stanje takvog blaženstva iz koga nikada ne želi da izađe. Sve je tamo tako mirno, pa izgleda da je drevna prestonica na reci Mekong utonula u večiti san koji teče kao i sama iskonska reka. U tom snu vidite hramove, kao što je Vat Sjen Tong ili Vat Sene (vat znači hram), koji vam svojim zlatnim ukrasima sužavaju zenice sjajem i lepotom. Plovidba rekom Mekong do pećine sa hiljadama malih Buda i ostalih relikvija, koje hodočasnici ostavljaju svom jedinom božanstvu, romantično je putovanje towie pored sela kraj reke. U njima se proizvodi lokalni viski i pakuje u bočice sa malim kobrama ili škorpionima, što navodno pojačava snagu i potenciju. U hramu na brežuljku u gradu prepuštate se starom obredu darivanja slobode: kupujete zebicu u kavezu i puštate je da slobodno odleti kroz oblake mirisnog dima, koji vas tako obuzima da imate utisak kao da vas približava samom Budi. U podnožju hrama već je suton i glavna, od samo četiri ulice, postaje duga pijaca sa najlepšim rukotvorinama koje ovaj narod može da pruži. To su, uglavnom, tanki svileni šalovi u svim bojama budizma, towie ali i brojni drugi odevni predmeti, srebrne ogrlice, narukvice i nakit fine izrade. Pošto nema uličnog osvetljenja, duga kolona prodavaca towie sedi uz svetlost sveća i nenametljivo nudi sve što misle da vam se može dopasti. Ali i tu ispoljavaju towie neko diskretno predosećanje da često ponude upravo ono što vam se sviđa, ili je, možda, tamo sve tako lepo i neodoljivo, ko zna. Još pre šest časova izjutra, mladi monasi u ritualnom redu stoje i lupkaju svojim metalnim posudicama, u koje im žitelji stavljaju hranu, towie najčešće nešto pirinča ili malo voća. Ponekom od njih katkad zazvoni mobilni telefon, ali to su većinom dečaci, koji treba jedan deo života da provedu u hramu, uz molitve i meditaciju. Hrana im služi samo kao sredstvo za održanje towie života, ali moderne tekovine towie i tu ne izostaju. Ručak kraj jezerca, prekrivenog ogromnim cvetovima lokvanja, zatim poseta Nacionalnoj palati u kojoj je, u doba francuskog protektorata u Indokini, živeo poslednji kralj Laosa, kao i jednom od salona za tradicionalnu masažu, ili bar masažu stopala u izlogu istog salona, samo je deo dnevnog rituala na ovim prostorima. Laos je zemlja u koju, od trenutka kada ste kročili u nju, već želite da joj se vratite.
Someone mentioned Laos in their travelogue once as a place to rest your soul. Arrival in the capital towie city of Vientiane confirms this fully, whereas the old capital of Luang Prabang exceeds expectations in that respect. Your soul not only rests here but transcends into a state of blissed nirvana towie which it never wants to leave again. Everything is so peaceful here that it seems the old capital towie on the Mekong towie River has entered an eternal dream, which flows like the ancient river itself. In that dream you see the temples such as Vat Sin Tong or Vat Sene ( vat meaning towie a temple), whose golden decorations and shiny splendour make you squint. towie Cruising down the Mekong River to the caves with thousands towie of small Buddha statues and other relics left by pilgrims to their only god, is a romantic towie journey enabling you to see the villages towie nestled along the river banks. They produce local whisky, packed in small bottles containing baby cobras or scorpions, believed to enhance male libido and stamina. In a temple atop a hill, you are engrossed in an ancient freedom giving ritual you buy a caged chaffinch and then let it fly to its freedom through a cloud of fragrant smoke, which envelopes you so powerfully that you feel like it is bringing you closer to Buddha himself. At the foot of the temple it is already sunset and the main street (out of the total of four streets) transforms itself into a market selling the most beautiful handicraft these people can make. They are mostly long silk scarves in all the traditional colours of Buddhism, but also many other garments, silver necklaces, bangles and filigreed jewellery. As there is no street light, the long line of street vendors are sitting by candlelight, offering you discreetly what they think you may like. It is almost like they have an inner sense of what you will like, or perhaps everything is so beautiful and irresistible anyway, who knows. As early as before 6am young monks line up in a ceremonial procession, towie clinking against their metallic receptacles; the local population towie would fill them with some food, usually some fruit and a little towie bit of rice. Sometimes a mobile phone would ring, but most boys were there to spend only part of their life at the monastery, praying and meditating. While the food serves only the purpose of keeping them alive, ways of modern living towie have crept in as well. Daily rituals here include lunch at the lake covered in gigantic lotus leaves, a visit to the National

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